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In New Bedford, the aromas and flavors of food are fundamental to the lives of migrant communities. Each tortilla, taco, horchata or cake evokes memories of the countries, friends and family they left behind when moving here. 

The city, known for hosting migrants from many countries and continents, is a port of entry for delicious Portuguese, Cape Verdean, Puerto Rican and Central American preparations, among others.

Estela de la Cruz and her husband, Rolando Jimón, are known for preparing the authentic taco chapín in her home. Estela, who learned to make tortillas by hand at age 8 in Guatemala, replicated her recipe for cooked and shredded meat with col (cabbage), sautéed onion, tomato sauce, mayonnaise and a touch of hot sauce. Although at first she had difficulties, with persistence she managed to make her food taste as original as it did in Guatemala. Now, her family and friends celebrate her success, and she hopes to open a food truck.

Julisa Tejeda, a Bataneca from San Sebastián, El Salvador, is the daughter and granddaughter of bakers and she shares her passion for cooking on social networks such as YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and TikTok, where she has more than a thousand followers. In addition to recipes from her country, she prepares Honduran dishes, since her husband is from Honduras. “I feel like the chef of this house,” says Julisa, who is writing a book that compiles almost a hundred typical recipes. Her specialty includes pupusas, Honduran baleadas, horchata and pan de yema.

Email Gerardo Beltrán Salinas at gerardo@newbedfordlight.org