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On the Sunday afternoon before the annual Feast of the Blessed Sacrament, there’s a buzz of activity at Madeira Field in the city’s North End.
Tim Rodrigues is the president of this year’s event, and he’s wearing the official “got Madeira?” T-shirt representing the 110th edition of one of New England’s most enduring and unique events.
He’s also wearing the look of a man trying to solve several different problems simultaneously.
Treasures is a celebration of all things that make the New Bedford area special. If you have a place or event that you’d like us to explore, send an email to tips@newbedfordlight.org.
“Four days, 4 hours and 30 minutes,” he said, looking around at the not-yet-transformed Madeira Field. “And it’ll be time.”
It’s truly a remarkable combination of tradition, dedication and stamina that leads to this yearly extravaganza — a free four-day party that is staffed completely by volunteers and attended by thousands of people.
“Organized chaos,” Rodrigues said before heading out of the north entrance for the raising of a temporary archway onto the fittingly named Madeira Avenue. “But it all works out in the end.”
If you’re new to this, it’s essentially a music and food festival that celebrates Madeiran culture.
Work for each festa begins when the last one concludes (with a few days off for much-needed rest and recovery), and builds to a crescendo in the week leading up to Thursday’s 6 p.m. opening ceremonies.
On this Sunday, the day started very early with a hardy group of regulars who go to Gooseberry Island to pick the greenery that decorates fences and overhangs to remind you of the homeland 3,000 miles away. You can tell who was out on the island at 4 a.m. by the sunburned faces and obvious fatigue; it’s a long day that sets the tone for a long week ahead.
By the early afternoon, the greens are in a massive pile in the enclosed pavilion area, 10 feet tall and 10 feet wide, waiting to be dispersed throughout the grounds by a fresh wave of volunteers.
The cooks have been working since 2 a.m. preparing food for dozens of volunteers — a mere hint of things to come, when they will be preparing food for tens of thousands.
Considering the time, thoughtful effort and overwhelming history behind each event, there’s little doubt that this is the city’s most notable affair — even if it isn’t for everyone. It takes place the first weekend of August every year, so it’s usually hot, humid, and crowded, with a heavy dose of eating, drinking and merry-making. Not always a comfortable mix.
But if you’re willing and able, there’s a little something for everyone — especially if you follow a few key do’s and don’ts.
Don’t expect the worst. It’s a fairly common refrain when talking to people about the Feast: “I’d never go,” or “I haven’t been in years.” The reasons vary. It’s too crazy. Too dangerous. Too wild. Too crowded.
Some of those concerns are perfectly understandable. If you dislike crowds, loud music, or have an aversion to delicious pork sandwiches, the Feast may simply not be your thing.
But personal safety really isn’t a good reason to stay away.
Security is extensive. Everyone entering passes through a metal detector and security screening. There is a significant police presence, made up largely of experienced veterans who have worked the Feast for years and know exactly how to handle the event.
This year also brings a new policy: Anyone under 21 is no longer allowed admittance into the Feast after 8 p.m. Whether that proves to be a long-term change (and whether it proves to be a popular decision) remains to be seen, but it’s clearly intended to reduce the potential for problems during the busiest hours.
If you’re comfortable at an outdoor music festival, have enjoyed Bourbon Street, or like the energy of a lively street celebration, you’ll probably have a great time.
If that sounds like your idea of hell on earth, then yes, you should probably skip it. But don’t skip it because you think it’s unsafe. The Feast works hard to make sure it isn’t.
Sights from the Feast prep
Photo credit: Jonathan Comey / The New Bedford Light
Do check the weather, but don’t overreact to it: If spending the evening getting rained on doesn’t sound like your idea of a good time, you’re in the majority. But although the current outlook shows a high percentage chance of rain for much of the four days, don’t let a gloomy forecast automatically scare you away.
More often than not, that forecast refers to the possibility of scattered pockets of rain that move through the area and can often be anticipated by checking the radar.
The Feast offers some sheltered areas, but if it rains for an extended period, covered space will be at a premium. On the other hand, rain also tends to send plenty of people home, making it easier to find a dry spot until the shower passes.
And honestly, there are worse places to get caught in a summer shower than surrounded by a few thousand people enjoying a festive night, with live music, good food, and everyone in a good mood. The stages are all covered, so the show will go on.
Do figure out what your sweet spot is. A good time is there to be had for almost every type of person.
Want to walk around on a weekend afternoon and sample different kinds of Portuguese food? Want to take the kids to a carnival? Want to go to a free music festival? All of those options are on the table, depending on your timing.
The food is there all week, although it’s important to note that you won’t always be able to get every tasty morsel at every hour. The later into the night it gets, the more likely it is that one or more of your favorites has sold out. If you’re looking to do a food tour, earlier is generally better.
One side of the Feast is dedicated to a small carnival with the usual assortment of rides, games and carnival food, and that’s open throughout the event.
Thursday is kind of the regulars’ day. You’re most likely to see the true Feast diehards. There are lots of hugs, unexpected bump-ins, scores of vintage official Feast T-shirts, and a sense of camaraderie that’s unique to that night.
On Friday, the grounds open at 5 p.m. and fill up steadily as the sun sets. That’s traditionally when you’re most likely to see the Feast at its busiest, with wall-to-wall people filling the streets.
Saturday has two speeds. It opens at noon with a much more relaxed daytime atmosphere where you can wander, eat and take your time. By evening, though, it feels much more like Friday night.
Sunday is family day. The annual parade kicks things off, and that’s when you’ll probably see the highest concentration of both the youngest and oldest Feast-goers. Then, as Sunday night winds down, the mood shifts. Among the volunteers, you can feel the exhausted joy of another successful Feast going into the books.
For folks looking for a quieter experience, there is a cafe on the Belleville Avenue side with coffee, pastries, drinks and traditional Portuguese singers. The Museum of Madeiran Heritage flanks it, and is worth a walk-through.
Don’t bring your own carne do espeto (and other important distinctions). The long barbecue pit in the southern end of the grounds is the heart of the Feast, where people grill large cubes of meat on thick metal skewers. Folks used to bring their own meat and rock salt, but you’ve had to buy your beef from the Feast for several years now.
A lot of details like that are worth paying attention to if you are new or haven’t been in awhile.
Like everything else, the Feast’s payment system has become more technologically advanced over the years. This year, you can either use a credit card directly or convert cash into a Feast-only card that works at each station, kind of like the stored-value cards used at laundromats or game arcades. Once you’re set up, it’s pretty straightforward, and the lines should move quickly at the two dedicated stations.
The area surrounding the Feast is bordered to the north, east and west by dense residential neighborhoods filled with classic New Bedford triple-deckers, and everyone knows the drill. Free on-street parking can be hard to find, especially during the busiest hours, but depending on how far you’re willing to walk, you can find something. However, there are several paid lots within easy reach of the grounds that make a lot of sense. They won’t cost what you’d pay at a game or concert, but expect to spend $20+ that’s probably going to be worth it to you.
Backpacks are banned, as are oversized purses, so be smart about what you bring with you. If you don’t really need it, leave it in the car. You’ll move through security faster, have less to carry around, and be one less person trying to squeeze through the crowd with a bag on your shoulder.
Do check out the entertainment schedule: There are five different stages including the cafe, and music round the clock.
Sugar Ray, one of the most memorable ’90s acts (“Fly”, “Every Morning”), carries on a long tradition of famed Thursday night openers on the main stage, but there is talent everywhere all four days, concluding with the excellent Tom Petty tribute act The Breakers on Sunday night.
And the Grupo Folclórico traditional Portuguese dancers can be seen all four nights at 8 p.m. on the main stage to remind everyone that this is not your average rock festival.
The full list of performers, plus other pertinent info, can be found here on the official website.
Don’t underestimate the mystical power of the Madeira wine. If you know, you know.
The wine is served chilled and goes down smooth, but it packs a mighty punch. Many a reveler has fallen victim to this magical elixir, where it’s easy enough to go from the time of your life to an early exit.
Some combination of the quality of the wine (imported from the island in large casks), the heat, the ambience and quite possibly the spirit of the founding fathers makes for a truly special drink.
Just be careful. And if you’re feeling no pain see a group of men and women with festive hats, drums and strange wooden percussion toys winding their way through the Feast, tag along and clap on time.
You’ll never forget it … unless you have one too many, which is always a possibility.
And you know what? That’s OK too. You can always try again next year.
Jonathan Comey is a decorated newspaper editor and columnist and a contributor to The New Bedford Light. Please send emails to him at jcomey@newbedfordlight.org.
